Food Glorious Food – Hot chappatis and chai!!
A challenge we all face when travelling can be the food. It’s such a basic comfort – and travelling can show us very quickly how attached we can be to our usual diet.
“Where’s my muesli? Where’s my coffee? Where’s my toast? I want salad!!”
When we head off to strange lands, especially “off the beaten track” the thought of “What will we eat?” can be pretty daunting if you have no idea what you are going to encounter. And in some lands and certainly in India, cafes serving Western menu choices can be few and far between if you are not on the usual tourist trail.
As travellers, some of us have encountered some weird and wonderful things -Tarantulas in Cambodia, frogs in France, chicken feet in Hong Kong.. and sundry insides of other unknowns on many plates? Little tiny birds in aspic shocked me on my first foray in Paris many years ago!
But back to India… there everything has different names. The menu is not easy to understand, even if it is in English – and the foods change from place to place. Some areas are more highly spiced than others .. and some are really difficult to decipher the ingredients.
When I was taking folks to India I would assure them: “Your trusty tour leader has been here for a while and has some good understanding of just what each possible dish may be. That’s not saying that I don’t regularly have new experiences with Indian food.. it is just so varied and wonderful! But what I don’t know – then our translator companion will! The food is half the journey – we love to introduce our friends to the taste sensations available at every turn.”
Those times of travel are stopped right now in this time of Covid, but here are some insights for your future travel – some tips to get you started:
A restaurant is called a ‘hotel’ – so don’t try to stay the night there!
Some of the roadside ‘dhabas” where you will often eat when travelling can look very questionable but the food that is prepared on the spot can be exceptional.
The most important way to stay healthy while you are on the road is to make sure that the place where you are eating – cooks the food when you order it. Interestingly enough the small places almost always do this – the bigger more posh places tend to cook before and re-heat.
Some street stalls serve delicious snacks but you do need to know what to ask for. Or be surprised. Ask for help – your driver or others eating there will be happy to offer advice so you can sample these delights.
Dosa coming up. And yes the red stuff is chilli but you can choose yes or no.
Here it is .. your breakfast dosa – yummy! Note the interesting addition to this one. a thin plastic sheet across the green plastic plate under each serving! Not sure if it is for ease of cleaning or hygiene for each patron.. whichever it is not much good for the environment!
Don’t expect a customary breakfast except when you are in the city and staying in a ‘proper’ hotel – as Indian breakfast is very different to your usual toast, porridge, eggs or muesli. In Karnataka and South India for example, they love Idli – both steamed and fried.. a type of fermented rice and urud dal cake – served with a spicy liquid called sambar and a coconut chutney which is yummy.
Dosas are also available – made of a similar mix but spread thinly on a cooking plate like. a thin pancake .. and also delicious.
In Rajasthan you will be served different dishes, – ranging from sweet to spicy and all the way in between.
That said .. you can always get a cup of tea and the Indian chai is very addictive. Those of us who are a little precious about not taking sugar.. hey .. if you can relax that during your India trip you will experience some delights that are unforgettable. Chai is one of them. And in the village, or in people’s homes, you will always be offered chai.. please be polite and accept if you can. There have been times during a village visit when I have had so many cups of chai through being poite that sleep that night was almost impossible. Chai is very strong – lots of caffeine – a tiny paper cup of chai taken on the highway at night when sleepiness is imminent will wake you up for another 100 kms.
Note: If you who can’t take the savoury style of breakfast good curd is ubiquitous and the bananas especially the tiny ones are some of the best in the world.
The curd that came by bicycle to the door when I stayed with a family in a remote Maharasthra village in my opinion was the best in the world!! It was made from buffalo milk and was deliciously is creamy and sweet.
In fact Chai made with buffalo milk and sweetened with jaggery (the first most basic form of sugar – boiled sugar cane juice till it cooks down and solidifies when cool) is the best chai I have ever had.
Vegetarian.. this is easy in India. If you visit rural places most folks will offer vegetarian food. Unless they are Muslim – for them goat is a food eaten at times of festival. But don’t get confused – goat is commonly called mutton. It is prepared in various ways and those who try it are usually very impressed.
Chicken is often running around very recently – (except in the big cities) none of your supermarket packed in plastic bags chicken.. this is free range and has its head chopped just before cooking.
The breads are cooked as ordered.. in the form of flat breads, roti, chappati and then there are the tandoori breads – the naans, yeasty, tasty and come with butter, garlic, and other possibilities. And if you get a chance to taste ragi roti this is made with millet flour – dark and extremely flavoursome.
Desserts are sweet and most often milk based – the sweet shops or bakeries offer a selection of delectable balls of various types. .. some made with pure dry fruits – you won’t want to stop eating them.
I believe that we get to know a culture not only by the language, but very much by the foods we share together. When we eat the food of our neighbour we understand more of their ways and their heart. Sharing food in India is a wonderful experience and one you will never find even in the best Indian restaurants in your home town. As the taste sensations flood your mouth so too the generosity and the openheartedness of your hosts will enter your being.
Be prepared to enjoy – bring your taste buds and get ready for the most delicate and surprising culinary sensations on Earth! (And of course if you are ready for it.. the ‘firey’ ones too – our Indian friends love their chilli!)
I trust that this has given you a little insight into the culinary delights awaiting you as you consider a journey to the land of the Gods.. India – Mother India – a land magical, generous, and filled with a people who will capture your heart and your soul if you just let them in for a moment.